Guide d'acclimatation
Guide d'acclimatation des plantes issues de culture de tissus
Félicitations pour votre nouvelle plante issue de culture tissulaire !
Votre plante a été cultivée dans un laboratoire stérile où elle a bénéficié d'une chaleur constante, d'une humidité de près de 100 % et d'un environnement riche en nutriments. Avant de pouvoir prospérer en tant que plante d'intérieur, elle doit s'adapter progressivement à des conditions de croissance normales. Ce processus est appelé acclimatation.
Veuillez suivre attentivement ce guide. Prendre votre temps pendant l'acclimatation augmentera considérablement les chances de succès de votre plante.
What You'll Need
- Clear humidity dome or plastic container with a lid
- Small clear plastic cup or 2–3 inch nursery pot
- Growing medium:
- Long-fiber sphagnum moss (recommended for Monstera)
- 50/50 Fluval Stratum and perlite (recommended for Philodendron, Anthurium, Alocasia, and most other aroids)
- Distilled, RO, or rainwater
- Ready-to-use diluted Betadine solution
- Spray bottle (optional)
1
Unbox Your Plant
Carefully remove your plant from the packaging.
Inspect it for any shipping damage. A bent leaf or minor cosmetic damage can happen during shipping and is usually nothing to worry about.
Keep the plant out of direct sunlight while preparing for acclimation.
2
Prepare Your Growing Medium
For Monstera
Use long-fiber sphagnum moss.
Soak the moss in clean water until fully hydrated, then squeeze out the excess water.
The moss should feel evenly damp—not dripping wet.
If you squeeze it firmly, only a drop or two of water should come out.
For Other Aroids
For Philodendron, Anthurium, Alocasia, and most other aroids, use a 50/50 mix of Fluval Stratum and perlite.
Lightly moisten the mixture before planting.
The medium should be damp but never waterlogged.
3
Sanitize the Roots
Before planting, gently rinse or lightly soak the roots using your ready-to-use diluted Betadine solution for about one minute.
This helps reduce bacteria and fungi during the acclimation process.
Do not use undiluted Betadine directly on the roots.
Allow excess solution to drain before planting.
4
Plant Your Tissue Culture
Fill your container with the prepared growing medium.
Place the roots gently into the medium.
Cover the roots while keeping the crown (where the leaves meet the roots) just above the surface whenever possible.
Do not pack the medium tightly. Roots need oxygen to grow.
5
Create a High-Humidity Environment
Place your planted tissue culture inside a clear humidity dome or sealed plastic container.
Ideal growing conditions are:
- Humidity: 90–100%
- Temperature: 22–27°C (72–81°F)
- Light: Bright, indirect light
- No direct sunlight
Never place the dome in direct sun, as temperatures inside can rise quickly and damage the plant.
6
Do Not Water
Do not water your plant for approximately two weeks.
The growing medium already contains enough moisture for the roots.
Adding more water too early is one of the most common causes of root rot.
Only add a small amount of water if the medium becomes almost completely dry.
7
Leave the Dome Closed
For the first 2–3 weeks, keep the humidity dome closed.
Avoid opening it to check the roots.
Avoid disturbing the plant.
During this stage, the plant is focusing on producing new roots and adapting to its new environment.
Slow growth during this period is completely normal.
8
Watch for New Growth
Once acclimation begins, you'll notice signs that your plant is settling in.
Look for:
- New leaves emerging
- Fresh root growth
- Firmer leaves
- Healthy green color
Some older leaves may yellow or melt during this stage. This is normal as long as new growth continues.
9
Slowly Introduce Normal Humidity
After 2–3 weeks, once you see healthy new growth, begin opening the humidity dome gradually over 1–2 weeks.
A simple schedule:
Days 1–3
Open the dome for 15–30 minutes each day.
Days 4–6
Increase to 1–2 hours each day.
Days 7–10
Leave the lid partially open.
Days 11–14
Remove the dome completely if the leaves remain firm and healthy.
If the plant begins to wilt, simply slow down the process and increase humidity again.
Patience is key.
10
Transplant
Once your plant can comfortably grow in normal room humidity, transplant it into a chunky aroid mix.
A good mix contains:
- Orchid bark
- Perlite
- Coco chips
- Charcoal
- A small amount of sphagnum moss
Choose a pot only slightly larger than the root system.
Avoid oversized pots, as they stay wet longer and increase the risk of root rot.
Ongoing Care
After acclimation:
- Water when the growing medium begins to dry
- Provide bright, indirect light
- Keep temperatures between 20–28°C (68–82°F)
- Fertilize after 3–4 weeks using a balanced fertilizer at ¼ strength
Increase fertilizer strength gradually as the plant matures.
Frequently Asked Questions
My leaves are turning yellow.
A small amount of yellowing is normal during acclimation. As long as the roots remain healthy and new growth appears, your plant is adjusting properly. Remove yellowed leaves to redirect energy to new growth.
How do I know if my plant has root rot?
Signs include mushy brown roots, a foul smell, and rapid leaf decline. If caught early, trim affected roots and replant in fresh medium. Ensure proper drainage and avoid overwatering.
Can I skip the humidity dome?
Not recommended. Tissue culture plants are accustomed to near-100% humidity. Without gradual acclimation, they may experience severe stress, wilting, or death.
How long does acclimation take?
Typically 4–6 weeks from unboxing to full acclimation. Some plants may take longer depending on species and growing conditions. Be patient and follow the gradual process.